As The Crow Flies - Ed.7 - A SHF-NOT Train Trail Guide

Summer has arrived, and it’s the perfect time of year to hop on a train and explore somewhere new. As such, this is the first in a series of 'beery day out' guides that we’ll be sharing. These are trips that you can do in a single day from the wonderful city of Sheffield or, in the case of this guide, conversely you could start at the other end of the trail, with the Steel City as your destination. 

In this guide we’ll be taking you on a train crawl to Nottingham and back. This isn’t as simple as getting on a train and having a day out in Nottingham (although we may revisit that in the future). Instead, we’ll be hopping on and off the hourly train that runs between Sheffield and Nottingham to create a crawl that stops at 8 pubs in 5 different locations! Timing is crucial, so there are certain stipulations that have to be made. In almost all circumstances we’ll be aiming to get to a pub, have a drink, and get back to the train station in time for the next hourly train. This means that we are keeping our list of recommended venues to ones that are situated within a 10 minute walk to the station.

The venues vary in their drinks offering, but most have at least a smattering of craft beer options, and all but one serve real ale. This pub crawl has been planned, so that it is doable both during weekdays and weekends. Some of the venues listed have slightly later opening times during the week, so if you’re planning to do it at the weekend, then you will have slightly more wiggle room in terms of the order you can undertake it in. In terms of a train ticket, we simply purchased a Day Return to Nottingham via Northern Rail, this ticket allows you to jump on and off the hourly Northern trains between Nottingham and Sheffield, as much as you like!

STOP 1 - SHEFFIELD TAP

Opening Times

Sun-Thu: 11AM-11PM

Fri-Sat: 10AM-12AM

The obvious starting point for any train crawl from Sheffield, thanks particularly to its early opening times throughout the week. With 11 hand pulls and 14 kegs this is easily the widest selection on the crawl, compromising primarily of the house Tapped Brew Co ales alongside a handful of Thornbridge beers. The main attraction of Sheffield Tap however is the building itself, a breathtaking Grade II listed building adorned with lovely olive green, and red tilling, and features that have been carefully restored or replaced in line with the building’s Edwardian heritage. A prime location for a swift half, before we jump on the train to start our adventure. 

STOP 2 - THE PIG & PUMP (CHESTERFIELD)

Opening Times

Sun-Thu: 12PM-11PM

Fri-Sat: 12PM-12AM

A quick 15 minute train journey takes us to Chesterfield, and a short 5 minute walk across the overpass, brings us to The Pig & Pump. The pub is directly opposite Chesterfield’s iconic crooked spire church, which is a must-see for first time visitors. Formerly The White Swan, at first glance The Pig & Pump could be mistaken for a Stonegate (or similar big PubCo) venture. It has the hallmarks of fairly inoffensive decor, and a food menu offering the standard fare on every table. But on closer inspection there are bits of character, and subtle hints to its history, that prevent it from falling into such genericism, chiefly a couple of beautiful stained glass windows with swan motifs, a nice nod to the former incarnation. Maybe the most striking sight in the pub though is the 12 handpulls present on the bar, with a good variety of well-kept ales to be found across them. The keg selection leaves much to be desired however, only Beavert*wn and Br*wdog to be found, and swiftly avoided. With the pub being so close to the station, you’ve probably got time for a pint, or a couple of halves here, before making your way back across the overpass to catch your next train. 

STOP 3 - KING BILLY (NOTTINGHAM)

Opening Times:

12PM-11PM Everyday

OK so, we’re only on stop 3 and I’ll admit we’re playing slightly fast and loose with our own rules already. After just over half an hour on the train we arrive at the furthest end of our pub crawl, Nottingham. There are so many wonderful watering holes in Nottingham that a whole other guide would be required to adequately give them all their due. As such, Nottingham is the only place on the crawl that we’ll be spending 2 hours rather than 1, this means we can take slight liberties with the distance from the station. Brew Tavern is unlucky to miss out here, it’s a great little place, as close as you can get to the train station, and if we only wanted to spend 1 hour in Nottingham then I'd recommend Brew Tavern as our only stop. But as it is, we’re spending 2 hours and so we’re going to be a little more adventurous. Besides if you’re nippy enough you will probably be able to fit in a half at Brew Tavern whilst waiting for your return train.

A 13 minute walk from the station will take us to King Billy. Over the last year this, slightly out of the way, traditional pub has shot up in my estimations to become one of my favourite places to drink in the country. You’ll struggle to find a better example of a quintessential British boozer. Upon entry we are immediately greeted by 8 handpulls, and a warm welcome from whomever is behind the bar. There is a small and decent offering of craft beer on the kegs, but the cask is always immaculate, and I have scarcely had a better pint of Oakham Citra. The back room is wonderful, a tartan carpet and eclectic decor consisting of Toby jugs, strange nick-nacks, and a simply terrifying painting of a child, whose eyes seem to follow you around the room. It’s the British boozer at its weird and wonderful best. 

STOP 4 - KEAN’S HEAD (NOTTINGHAM)

Opening Times

Mon-Thu: 12PM-10PM

Fri-Sat: 12PM-11PM

Sun: 11AM-10PM

The perfect halfway point between King Billy and the station lies a Nottingham institution. Owned and operated by Castle Rock brewery, coincidentally Kean’s Head is the second pub in this tour to be situated opposite a church. Unusually for a single room pub, it has managed to keep an air of cosiness. Like an old oak tree and its rings, the pump clips on the metal beams above punter’s heads allow the discerning eye to track the pub’s history. There are 9 handpulls and a large number of keg lines dedicated to craft beer and continental lagers. Naturally Castle Rock beers dominate the line-up but there is a decent selection besides that, mostly focusing on the English craft scene. This is also an ideal place to grab a small bite to eat. I would strongly recommend one of their delicious samosas, or bhajis, to line the stomach, before heading back to the station to start the return leg of our journey.

STOP 5 - THE DEWDROP INN (ILKESTON)

Opening Times:

Mon-Thu: 4PM-10PM

Fri-Sat: 12PM-10:30PM

Sun: 12PM-10PM

After a very short train journey from Nottingham we arrive in Ilkeston with only a 3 minute walk to our next stop, which is just as well as, like the King Billy, this is another pub that has carved its way into my heart in the last year. Built in 1884 as the Middleton Hotel, this Victorian pub is a wonderful collection of smaller rooms, which means you always feel snug wherever you are. A two sided bar straddles the two main rooms, which are both nicely decorated with traditional pub decor, from old brewery paraphernalia to padded, patterned pew seating. There is no craft beer to be found on the keg fonts, but there is a good selection of 7 very well kept cask beers, including a couple of contemporarily less favoured styles. One of the best pints I’ve enjoyed in the last year was a luscious pint of Rudgate Ruby Mild in The Dewdrop. If you have swerved my suggestion of a safety samosa at the Kean’s Head, then you may be about to reap the rewards, as no visit to the Dewdrop is complete without one of their iconic and outrageous cheese and onion cobs. They are an affront to God in all the right ways, and at £3.40 a go I genuinely think they might be the most economical way of buying an entire block of cheese. Even if all the above wasn’t the case, any pub with a sign above the bar advertising a weekly pop-up Butchers has my heart.

STOP 6 - UNDERDOG (DRONFIELD)

Opening Times

Mon-Thu: 4PM-11PM

Fri: 4PM-1AM

Sat: 2PM-1AM

Sun: 2PM-10PM

After a quick forty winks on the train to sleep off our chonion cob, we arrive in Dronfield. There are a number of watering holes on the road running parallel to the train tracks, and here you can kind of make your own adventure. My advice would be to walk straight past the Dronfield Arms and head into Underdog. Here you will find 5 cask beers, and a half a dozen craft kegs. The selection is as you’d expect, mostly consisting of UK craft, but still very good. The venue has a rather strange use of space, with a lot of wooden panelling, wood furniture and fake plants. I can see why the appearance may divide opinions, but it was immaculately clean, the beer was well kept and the staff were very friendly, so I’m willing to give it a free pass, despite normally desiring a bit more character in a pub. A half pint here will suffice, as we want to fit in another half on our way back to the station. 

STOP 7 - BEER STOP (DRONFIELD)

Opening Times

Mon-Tue: CLOSED

Wed-Thu: 3PM-8PM

Fri-Sat: 12PM-9PM

Sun: 2PM-6PM

Beer Stop Dronfield is a cracking little venue, but there are two things to take note of here, which set it apart from the other venues on this list. Firstly it is the only venue which is not open every day of the week, being closed on Monday and Tuesday, so if you’re planning on doing the train crawl on either of these days, you can skip this stop and opt for a pint in Underdog. Secondly this is the only venue on the list which has no cask options. There are however 6 craft keg lines, and an extensive can and bottles fridge for the keg shunners. In fact the stunning array of cans and bottles is one of the main reasons for Beer Stop’s inclusion in this guide, it’s a wide and fantastic collection, and if you’re doing this trip in the other direction i.e. (NOT>SHF rather than SHF>NOT) it’s a great place to grab a train tinnie. At one time Beer Stop was just a bottle shop, but there has clearly been time and care invested into the outside area to make on-site sales not only possible but enjoyable. This is our penultimate stop of the journey, Sheffield, and our final pub, are just a single train stop away.

STOP 8 - THE RUTLAND ARMS (SHEFFIELD)

Opening Times

Mon-Sat: 12PM-12AM

Sun: 12PM-11PM

To attempt to sum up the Rutland in under 200 words, is a thankless task. Weird and wonderful, doesn’t quite cut it. It is completely and utterly singular. Even that is not enough. Many words have been written about the Rutland over the years that praise its kooky aesthetic, taking delight in its eccentric decor and infamous jukebox. But, these are just snapshots, and as a regular of many years, if I had to ascribe the Rutty a single adjective it would be uncompromising. They are solid teflon, never bothered. The Rutland does as the Rutland wants, if that’s not for you, then that’s fine, you are free to leave. But nobody does. It is always packed and you will be lucky to find a table inside. Beer wise, there are 7 handpulls and 14 kegs, showcasing the very best of craft beer from these shores and beyond. If you’re doing the trail in the other direction (NOT>SHF rather than SHF>NOT) this is your perfect stop for something to eat, as the Rutland boasts the best pub food in Sheffield. 

This concludes our tour, time to wobble to the bus stop, or clamber into a taxi home. 

A final note for those wanting to do this trail from NOT>SHF, opening times means it’s not as simple as swapping the Nottingham stops with the Sheffield ones. As such I would advise the following order:

STOP 1 - KEAN’S HEAD (NOTTINGHAM)

STOP 2 - PIG&PUMP (CHESTERFIELD)

STOP 3 - RUTLAND ARMS (SHEFFIELD)

STOP 4 - SHEFFIELD TAP

STOP 5 - BEER STOP (DRONFIELD)

STOP 6 - UNDERDOG (DRONFIELD)

STOP 7 - THE DEWDROP INN (ILKESTON)

STOP 8 - KING BILLY (NOTTINGHAM)

We would absolutely love to hear from anyone who attempts this train crawl, in either direction, please tag us (@thecrowinn in most places) in all of your adventure snaps and posts. Moreover, if you would like more guides like this, for one day getaways from Sheffield, then please do let us know!